The Fascinating History Behind Heels

My first (sartorial) love was heels.

It truly was love at first sight - I still remember going to Macy’s with my mom, excited to find my prom dress and finally gain a few inches for a couple of hours. I had never been allowed to wear these height boosters before, so this was ~ a moment ~ for me.

I walked up and down the aisles for a bit when something finally caught my eye. They were a light grey color, almost pearl from some angles, with glitter all over. It was as if a (very pointy) disco ball was dipped in fairy dust, and just as magical. They were, in my mind, the epitome of glamour and sophistication.

“These”. I said. “I’ll wear these.”

Trying them on was my moment. It felt like the crescendo of femininity, elevating not only my height, but also my confidence.

I was going to tower over everyone (only in my head of course, because I probably barely touched 5’ 6” with those heels).

My very first (very tall) pair of stilettos.

Shoes have served both psychological and functional purposes throughout history. They have been used practically, of course, but also to show position in society.

Although the pandemic gave a rise in popularity to the comfiest shoes possible, heels are, and will always be a symbol of confidence, femininity, and the timeless allure of elevated fashion.

So what’s the history behind them?

Heels have a loooong history, and their origins can be traced back to ancient times. The first recorded use of heeled shoes goes as far back as c. 10th century in Persia. These early heeled shoes were reportedly worn by Persian horseback riders to help secure their feet in the stirrups.

In the 15th century, heels gained popularity in European fashion, most notably among the upper classes. Both men and women wore heeled shoes as a symbol of status, wealth and privilege.

But I don’t just want to talk about the history of fashion. I want to talk about the absurd history of fashion.

In 16th century Venice, men and women began wearing pattens, which were typically made of wood and worn over shoes to protect them from the dirt, dung, and other nasties lining medieval streets. 

However, it was high class women and courtesans (prostitutes, mainly for the aristocracy) who wore the wildest versions of this shoe - mostly in 16th century Venice. They were known as chopines – platforms that are believed to have originated in the Middle East, with early examples found in Turkey, often covered with punched leather and could measure well over a foot in height! 

WHAT ARE THOOOOOSEEEEE??

The platforms were often intricately decorated, and the shoes themselves could be decorated with luxurious fabrics, embroidery, and jewels, making them inaccessible to lower classes of society.

They were quite literally stilts and they literally and symbolically elevated the wearer. Wearing these shoes meant that you were above all things common.

The absurd height of chopines restricted the ability of a woman to walk steadily down the street. The impracticality of this footwear contributed to the notion that it was a display of privilege, symbolizing wealth and sophistication, as they often needed a chaperone to help them walk.

The necessitated help also reinforced the patriarchal structure of the Renaissance because it meant that “proper” women would remain at home away from wandering eyes and only be outdoors with a chaperone.

So why don’t we wear these now?

Well for one thing, as road conditions improved, it was not necessary to wear stilts to avoid the muck underneath your feet. By the 17th century, the popularity of chopines waned significantly. Aside from improved roads, practical considerations, changing fashion trends, and the potential hazards and impracticality of wearing such high footwear all contributed to their decline. As European society shifted, so did their shoes.

But, that doesn’t mean heels went away forever! But that’s a topic for a different Fashion History Friday 😉

Fashion history is wild and I love it. 😍

Even though I haven’t worn stilettos since my prom day 8 years ago, my love for heels is as strong as ever.

I just choose a chunkier heel now. 😉